China in Vancouver

Vancouver has a long history of  Chinese moving there en masse, most recently  after Hong Kong returned to Chinese rule on July 1, 1997 (although lately, many Chinese are returning home.)  There were cultural tensions but by now the situation seems pretty stable.  On the food front, with such a large Chinese population,  there are lots of Chinese markets and a host of super-chefs leading many to declare that Vancouver has the best Chinese food anywhere.

One lunch does not a trend confirm but the dim sum we had at Kirin, ( sounds Japanese as in the beer but it’s not), was spectacular—as good or better than any consumed in New York, San Francisco or Hong Kong.

The clear, fresh tastes of the steamed beef ball with tangerine peel and bean curd skin as well as the steamed prawn and pork dumplings with flying fish roe were unusual as was being served dishes one by one by male waiters, (as contrasted with typical dim sum spots where women push carts past the table for your consideration.) Kirin is rather stylish, not very expensive and has a vast menu that includes local items like geoduck, a large, saltwater clam found in these parts.

Sated, we went on to visit the Dr. Sun Yat Sen Chinese Garden (named after him although he had nothing to do with it.)

The garden, a large series of interior and exterior spaces, includes ponds with rocks, trees and falling water, moon gates, pavilions and connecting walkways. It was built in 1985-1986 by fifty-two master craftsmen from Suzhou working together with their Canadian counterparts. Hailed by National Geographic as “one of the top city gardens in the world, ” the space as a whole exemplifies what a Ming dynasty scholar might have enjoyed with the requisite elements of rock, water, plants and architecture to balance yin and yang. There are opportunities to admire penjing trees, the Chinese art form that predates Japanese bonsai although both are stylized, portable plants meant for contemplation. (Years ago a friend entrusted two exquisite bonsai to my care while she went on vacation. My older daughter and I followed her instructions to the letter—and managed to kill both plants. Since then, I regard bonsai, or in this case, penjing, with both awe and fear.)

Walking through the garden, every view is strikingly different.  The zig-zags of the Double Corridor force you  to stop and contemplate.  According to our guide, because Chinese ghosts don’t have legs they can’t maneuver the corridor’s angles thus making it impossible for them to “trespass.”  ( I wanted to ask why these floating ghosts couldn’t waft through but politely kept my mouth shut.)

The jade bottomed koi pond had a temporary exhibit of contemporary floating art that marred its serenity–the only off note in the entire garden.  Other features include displays of scholar’s rocks, beautifully carved moon gates and “lady” balustrades, designed so that women could sit in a decorative manner as part of the harmonious picture. (For twenty-first century women–or men– the railings make any form of sitting  incredibly uncomfortable.) The garden is so completely thought through that even the courtyard rocks beneath your feet are intricately designed as are the leak windows, designed to lead the eye to vistas beyond the lattice work.

I wouldn’t assay a complex Chinese recipe –too much chopping and dicing– but this peanut-sauced noodle dish is a cinch.  It does require a trip to a Chinese market and is certainly not  high- end cuisine but is delicious.

 

 

Noodles in Peanut-Sesame Sauce

1 lb. Chinese-style noodles (or any spaghetti/fettuccini-type pasta)

2 Tbsp. dark sesame oil

Dressing:

6 Tbsp. good quality smooth peanut butter

1/4 cup water

3 Tbsp. light soy sauce

6 Tbsp. dark soy sauce (if you can find only one kind don’t panic—the recipe still works)

6 Tbsp. tahini (sesame paste)

1/2 cup dark sesame oil

2 Tbsp. sherry

4 tsp. rice wine vinegar

1/4 cup honey

4 medium cloves garlic, minced (I use only two)

2 tsp. minced fresh ginger

1/2 cup hot water

Garnish (entirely optional)

1 carrot, peeled and shredded using vegetable peeler

1/2 firm medium cucumber, peeled, seeded, and julienned

1/2 cup roasted peanuts, coarsely chopped

2 green onions, thinly sliced

Cook noodles in large pot of boiling unsalted water over medium heatuntil barely tender and still firm. Drain immediately, rinse with cold water until cool and toss with the 2 T dark sesame oil so they don’t stick.

To make the sauce combine all ingredients except hot water in a blender or food processor fitted with steel blade and blend until smooth.  Thin with hot water to consistency of heavy cream.

Shortly before serving, toss noodles with sauce and garnish if that’s your pleasure.  Serve at room temperature.