Belgium must be heaven for beer drinkers but I am not one. The country produces beers with twelve percent alcohol content; beers with seven percent and beers with five or less; beers dosed with chocolate(another Belgian fave), or cherries or black currants; light beers that are pale gold and beers so dark they’re almost black. Beers are made in abbeys, by Trappist monks and for all I know by elves. Most beers are produced in bottles–cans are only for export and bars don’t have a lot of varieties on tap, even at the “100 Beer” bar near my hotel. Reading the beer menu there is dizzy-making as each beer is described by type and alcohol content. Each beer is served in a particular glass and some are fairly elaborate.
On the food side of the ledger, it was odd to find no Brussels sprouts. They didn’t appear on any menu that came my way. I’d also thought endive would be coming out of my ears but maybe fall is not endive season. Belgians are big meat and fish eaters and veggies get largely a passing nod. A few dishes included carrots and a few peas and asparagus turned up but veggies aren’t big in Belgium. Cheese, however, is. Here’s a shot of many different Belgian cheeses,displayed at a Sunday market. 
Desserts run to ice cream, sorbets, profiteroles and custard. I couldn’t condone the calorie outlay on these, especially as Belgian chocolate is readily available. Shops sell chocolates in fancy boxes decorated with kittens, puppies, wooden shoes (which aren’t Belgian in the slightest) and Belgian maps or by the kilo. To buy by weight, you select the type you want from a variety like the ones in this picture. After buying some in a shop, friends clued me into picking up a hefty hunk at a great price at the nearest supermarket where I acquired several bars–all in my favorite dark. Some lucky people might get presents if I can keep my hands off long enough!
Here’s a recipe for waterzoii a Belgian national dish, from Rachel Ray. This version is the classic made with chicken; I also ate it made with a firm-fleshed white fish and a lot less cream than Rachel’s version. Basically, waterzooii is a chicken stew, perfect for cooling fall temperatures.
Ingredients
- 2 tablespoons butter
- 2 carrots, peeled and diced
- 2 leeks, chopped, rinsed and dried
- 2 all-purpose potatoes, peeled and diced
- Salt and white pepper
- 6 cups chicken stock or broth
- 1 fresh bay leaf or 2 leaves dried
- 4 sprigs fresh parsley, plus a handful chopped for garnish
- 4 sprigs fresh thyme
- 4 boneless, skinless chicken breasts, 8 ounces
- 1 cup heavy cream
- 1 large egg yolk
- Crusty baguette, warmed, for passing
Directions
In a deep pot over moderate heat melt butter and saute the vegetables for 5 minutes. Season with salt and white pepper. Tie together bay, parsley and thyme and add to the pot with stock or broth. Cover the pot and raise heat to bring liquid to a boil. Add chicken to the pot, cover and reduce heat to medium low. Poach the chicken 10 minutes. Uncover the pot. Remove chicken and slice. Whisk cream and egg together. Add a ladle of cooking broth to cream and egg to temper it. Stir cream and egg mixture into the waterzooi and stir constantly for 2 to 3 minutes to thicken. Add chicken back to the pot along with chopped parsley. Adjust seasoning. Ladle waterzooi into warm shallow bowls and serve with crusty baguette for dipping.