In early September I went to Lyon, France with a friend. After meeting in Paris we took the TGV (high speed train) to Lyon, a roughly two-hour trip. We collected the key and located our rented apartment, a modest, comfortable two-bedroom, one bath with a small kitchen in a very convenient area.
Paul Bocuse in full toque
Lyon, population about 1.5 million, is often called the gastronomic capital of France because many famous chefs, among them Paul Bocuse and the Mères Lyonnaises, mostly nineteenth-century talented women cooks, worked there and because the city is close to local sources of outstanding poultry, fish, vegetables and fruits. That said, I found many of the traditional dishes too rich and heavy, often weighed down by sauce. I’ve had a better salad Lyonnaise (greens, smoky bacon, croutons, and poached eggs with a vinaigrette dressing) in New York but, in fairness, the restaurant I ate it at in Lyon was nothing special.
I admit to the superiority of the poulet de Bresse, which has very juicy meat and really tastes like chicken. One night for a cheese course I ordered cervelle de Canut, (literally silk workers’ brains). What I got was a pot of vinegary white cheese dotted with chives which was interesting but pretty terrible.
Supposed to look like brains? Really?
To my taste, the celebrated tarte au pralines, a Lyonnaise specialty, is better to look at than eat. (American pralines, associated with New Orleans, are made of pecans, butter, milk and sugar. The Lyonnaise version
Lyonnaise praline tarte
is made from almonds coated multiple times in a vibrant pink, caramelized sugar syrup.) However, that pastry is one among a gazillion fabulous offerings at the many pastry shops. There are also lots of places to enjoy fabulous ice cream, gelato and chocolate. We did not suffer from lack of sweets.
As Lyon was the silk capital of the world beginning in the 16th century there are several museums devoted to silk workers and weaving. Silk goods —scarves, shawls, neckties — are for sale all over but I passed as prices were high and nothing was sufficiently tempting. There are lots of other museums featuring painting, puppetry, film, anthropology and more.
We walked a lot in addition to taking a funicular from the old part of Lyon, (Vieux Lyon, full of tourists) up to the white Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière 
that overlooks the city. We also rode busses and took the tram out to the terrific-looking, contemporary Musee de Confluences. Public transportation is clean, easy to navigate and requires only a credit card.
As Lyon is set between the Saone and Rhone rivers, I was surprised that there are no boats like the Bateaux Mouches in Paris. (There is one large boat which didn’t look appealing.) The riverbanks do offer beautiful views, food, book and flower markets and the chance to watch the locals at play like the boys who work on their skateboard or scooter routines
It’s a charming city with lots to do, see and eat.
We didn’t enjoy these wonderful potatoes while in Lyon but my grandmother used to serve them. Probably because I’m too impatient I can never get the bottom layer as deeply brown as I’d like.
Potatoes Lyonnaise
- 1 1/2 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes (about 4 medium potatoes), peeled and cut into 1/4-inch-thick rounds
- 2 tablespoons kosher salt, plus more to taste
- 2 tablespoons white vinegar
- 5 tablespoons melted butter
- 1 large sweet onion thinly sliced
- Freshly ground black pepper
- Finely chopped flat-leaf parsley leaves for garnish
Put potatoes with salt under enough water to cover by about an inch. Bring to boil, reduce heat and simmer uncovered about four minutes.
While potatoes boil, heat 1 Tbls oil in large cast iron skillet. Add onions and cook, stirring often until golden brown (Recipe says this takes 12-14 minutes. My experience is more like one-half hour to get them really dark brown.) When done put in bowl, set aside.
Add 2 more Tbls. oil to the skillet, raise the heat to medium and arrange half of the potatoes inside in a single layer (careful, they may sputter). Sprinkle with salt and pepper and cook, undisturbed, until the bottoms are golden brown, about 5 minutes. Flip and cook the other side under golden brown, about 5 more minutes.
Remove the cooked potatoes to a serving platter. Top with half of the cooked onions and half of the parsley, tent loosely with foil, and set aside.
Add remaining 2 Tbls. butter to now-empty skillet and repeat with remaining potatoes. Return reserved potatoes and onions to skillet, toss to combine, and cook until heated through, about 1 minute. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
Put on serving platter and serve hot. These potatoes can keep overnight but will lose some of their crispness. If you’re going to the trouble of making them best serve hot.
Potatoes Lyonnaise make a wonderful side dish with almost anything. Toss on a silk scarf and hum the Marseillaise when you serve.