Sunshine at Campobello

Taking advantage of already being fairly far northeast in Maine, we drove further up Route 1 which is scenic and heavily trafficked. The lunch stop was in Machias at Helen’s, an institution since 1950, (perfect for Maine which always seems like a step back in time. ) Don’t know when I’ve enjoyed steamers more–these were large, succulent and served with nothing more than a cup each of broth and melted butter. Sheer perfection.

After producing passports at customs, (the park is in New Brunswick, Canada), we entered what is technically called Roosevelt Campobello International State Park. The park, jointly run by the U.S. and Canada, offers whale watching, kayaking, beaches, hiking trails and other warm-weather pursuits and some people live there year ’round. I headed straight for the Visitor Center where a pretty good film details the Roosevelt experience. Then onto the Roosevelt “cottage” built in 1897 for a Boston matron who left it to FDR’s mother at a bargain $5000 fully furnished. Sara Delano ultimately left the property to Franklin who spent summers there with Eleanor and their children–and a tutor and full contingent of servants.

There are four full and two half-bathrooms, all with running water gravity- fed from storage tanks. The house–sorry, cottage- all thirty-four rooms– did not have electricity, in fact, when it became available, Eleanor refused it. The kitchen is especially terrific, particularly the large, white enamel coal and wood burning stove that bears the model name President. Bedrooms are fairly Spartan, largely with iron bedsteads and rag rugs but they do have jaw-dropping views, mostly of the Bay of Fundy.

The following morning, we went to one of the other cottages for Tea with Eleanor, a program that offers tea in fine china, home baked cookies and –in my case–two guides who were quintessential Mainers in their bearing and accents who told wonderful stories about the First Lady and her many accomplishments. At one point, needing to deal with twenty beds for a particular group of visitors, Eleanor borrowed the beds from other island families and, with one of her assistants boated to a nearby town, bought fabric and sewed the sheets. This is only one intimate detail shared in a very special hour amidst photos of Eleanor, copies of My Day, her daily newspaper column and other artifacts.

Campobello is definitely off the beaten path and takes a bit of getting to. It’s open just before Memorial through Columbus Day, it’s free and, if you can get there, will knock your socks off.

Soft Ginger Cookies (for those who don’t like Gingersnaps)

We were served a variation of these at our tea based on a recipe said to have been Eleanor’s. She wasn’t much into cooking nor did she have the time to do it what with press conferences (where she insisted that some reporters be women), overseeing the children and serving as FDR’s eyes and ears after he came down with polio at Campobello in 1921.

3/4 cup butter, softened
1 cup sugar
1 egg
1/4 cup molasses
2-1/4 cups all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons ground ginger
1 teaspoon baking soda
3/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon ground cloves
1/4 teaspoon salt
Additional sugar
In a large bowl, cream butter and sugar until light and fluffy. Beat in egg and molasses. Combine the flour, ginger, baking soda, cinnamon, cloves and salt; gradually add to the creamed mixture and mix well.

Roll into 1-1/2-in. balls, then roll in sugar. Place 2 in. apart on ungreased baking sheets. Bake at 350° for 10-12 minutes or until puffy and lightly browned. Remove to wire racks to cool. Makes roughly 2-1/2 dozen

Pour the tea. Nod to Eleanor. Think of Franklin who loved a dry Martini.