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<\/a>Crossing the border between Croatia and Bosnia-Herzegovina, (the crossing a non-event), is like going from the dazzle of Tiffany\u2019s into a dark dumpster.\u00a0 The countryside gets less lovely.\u00a0 Once in Mostar, the difference between countries is marked by greater poverty (there are kids begging on the famous Stari Most Bridge)<\/p>\n<\/a>Stari Most Bridge<\/p><\/div>\n
and many signs of the 1990s war including buildings with highly visible holes from mortar shells.\u00a0\u00a0 Apparently there is a coffee culture and various local foods but the lunch we had (sausages and chopped meat, presumably beef, \u00a0shaped like a cigar) was greasy and heavy although the grilled sort- of- pita bread that came with it was marvelous.<\/p>\n
The interior of the rebuilt 1618 Koski Mehmed Pa\u0161a Mosque is crude although the fountain outside and the setting right on the river\u2019s edge is lovely. Back in the day the gardens must have been delightful.\u00a0 For me, the highlight was visiting the Turkish House (Kajtaz’s House) in the Muslim quarter where a bell summons the woman next door who is wildly enthusiastic about the property and has a personal connection which I didn\u2019t fully grasp.<\/p>\n
The house was built in the late 16th<\/sup> century and belonged to the Turkish Governor who lived there with his four wives. Outside is a high wall, both to keep out the intense summer sun and to ensure that men couldn\u2019t see in. Color is everywhere\u2014on kilim rungs, pillows, table cloths and hangings \u2013along with examples of clothing of the period.\u00a0 The famous bridge was blown up in 1993 and rebuilt using mostly the original limestone dredged from the river.\u00a0 In warm weather young men dive off the bridge into the cold water beneath\u2014it\u2019s dangerous and must be frightening to even watch. The river\u2019s edge is lined with restaurants and cafes making it a nice spot for a meal or drink. The lead up to the bridge is lined with shops selling cheap scarves, carvings and every imaginable souvenir, sort of a gauntlet you have to run to get to the bridge itself, now a UNESCO site.<\/p>\n There are other parts of BH that attract visitors and it\u2019s unfair of me to judge the country on a one-day, one-city visit. However, I\u2019d say don\u2019t rush to this part of the world for Mostar alone but, if you\u2019re in the area and can spare the time, a visit here is a great way to see another culture.<\/p>\n Having already dissed the food, this is a fallback to hummus, served here as an appetizer. Trust me, homemade hummus is a different beast than the stuff in the plastic container at the store.<\/p>\n Hummus and Pita Chips<\/p><\/div>\n 1 (15-ounce) can chickpeas<\/p>\n 1\/4 cup fresh lemon juice (1 large lemon)<\/p>\n 1\/4 cup well-stirred tahini (you can omit this but it adds a deep note I like)<\/p>\n 1 small garlic clove, minced<\/p>\n 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for serving<\/p>\n 1\/2 teaspoon ground cumin<\/p>\n Salt to taste<\/p>\n 2 to 3 tablespoons water<\/p>\n Dash ground paprika, for serving<\/p>\n Get out the trusty food processor and put the lemon juice and tahini in; blend. Add the other ingredients, \u00bd the chickpeas at a time. Scrape down bowl sides a few times to be sure everything is smoothly incorporated. And voila. Serve with pita chips (whole wheat pita cut into triangles and toasted.) Find BH on the map. Yes, there next to Croatia.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":" Crossing the border between Croatia and Bosnia-Herzegovina, (the crossing a non-event), is like going from the dazzle of Tiffany\u2019s into a dark dumpster.\u00a0 The countryside gets less lovely.\u00a0 Once in Mostar, the difference between countries is marked by greater … Continue reading <\/a>Our guide relayed several charming anecdotes including one about the husband leaving a rose outside wife #1\u2019s door\u2014only if she accepted it was he permitted to enter her room while the other wives accepted the signal to mind the kids.\u00a0 The small, low dining table encourages family closeness (small is an understatement); sitting around it with crossed legs beneath you encourages moderate eating as one feels replete early on \u2013Weight Watchers take note.<\/p>\n<\/a>